Uh-oh, more animals! Last, last weekend my mom and I went away to Kafue National Park – one of the largest parks in Africa. It was suuuuuch a nice break from the city and usual weekend activities… and more importantly, it acquainted me with a few new animal friends :) . The lodge itself was beautiful and totally peaceful, with various decks and dining areas overlooking the river. I couldn’t imagine a more perfect place to be staying! The first day was a bit harrowing though, as our taxi driver doubled the price upon arrival (a saga that ended a few days later in a number of threats by him that could have easily had him ‘locked away’, as my manager later explained… but it’s all taken care of now!), fortunately, we met two really nice Dutch women our first night, spent most meals with them, and got a ride back to town with them on the Monday.
More importantly: Animals! I went on three safaris in total, and had a really good time, though, because it was quite a rainy weekend I didn’t see as many animals as I would have liked (I imagine the animals also don’t like to leave their warm beds when it’s all rainy). However, to make up for the lack of wild animals, we ended up meeting (and falling in love with) a family of semi-wild warthogs that live at the lodge (the managers had saved the mom warthogs from lions and fed them milk as babies/piglets?). Now the warthogs live close to the house and are tame enough to pet and play with (although they still have sharp teeth, so you have to be careful!). We had a great time with the warthog moms and babies. (*In some of the photos they’re kneeling to eat the grass, because warthogs’ necks are too short, so they find it easier to kneel)
The first night we were there my mom and I went for a ‘sunset boat cruise’ and saw a crocodile (I always have to remember to call them crocodiles rather than alligator!) and lots of hippos. However, the problem with hippos is that they’re really really shy, and therefore you only see their little ears and eyes for a minute before they go back under water. Still, really nice animals to see out in the wild. Oh, I guess we also saw lots of birds, but I don’t care much for birds and therefore don’t remember all their names, so they will be left out of this blog (sorry!).
The next morning we got up early for a 6am safari, but again, it rained and was quite chilly so we only saw a bunch of wild warthogs (they scamper around in a very silly/random way haha) and many deer-like animals (pukus, impala, etc.). One really interesting thing I learned from the guide was that there are three different warthog species that all live in the same area, and differ only in the quality of their senses (one hears very well, one smells very well, etc). As a result, the three species live together and ‘share their senses’ as a means of surviving. Pretty clever biological trick, eh? I thought so.
The final safari was an afternoon/evening one, which my mom was unfortunately too tired (/unimpressed by the lack of animals) to join me for. The beginning of the trip was much like the other one, lots of warthogs and ‘deer’, but as the sun was setting we saw a few more animals. For about 30 seconds I saw an elephant (yay!), but it quickly disappeared (the guides explained that many of the Kafue elephants remembered the days when humans poached them/their relatives and therefore remain quite afraid of humans). Also, as the sun set we saw a hippo outside of the water (pretty unusual for a hippo), walking along the river bank – they’re huge! Once it was dark we ended up seeing many mongooses (mongeese?), which really aren’t as interesting as their name suggests. Also, I saw a small spotted cat (it looked like a mini cheetah), but unfortunately it was impossible to take any good night photos. I also heard another interesting warthog story! I found out that the reason why the warthogs run around with their tails straight up is so that they can see each other (and signal each other) when hiding in the grass. However, the interesting part is that it is a learned skill –the warthogs at the lodge never have their tails up, because they missed having a mom warthog to teach them the skill. Cool eh? (though maybe not so cool for the lovely lodge warthogs)… I think that was about it for animals, except for the hippo we saw the morning we left – it was grazing right beside our cabins! They’re such nice animals (when they’re not busy taking out people!). All in all it was a really fun and relaxing trip, though, I still would like to see a zebra, and more elephants and giraffes… But who’s complaining?
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2173938&l=8fc7a&id=13613119
Monday, November 26, 2007
Friday, November 16, 2007
Between campuses
I can’t tell you how much I want to be out doing community outreach rather than always doing policy development, programming, grant submissions, publications etc, in the office all day. Don’t get me wrong, I do like my work and think that it probably has a greater impact than individual interactions but I really miss working with people and exploring city life. The university community is an interesting, clever bunch to work with (only the brightest students make it to the national university, as it is highly competitive), but it also means I work with a pretty secluded, unique part of the population. For this reason, I love any opportunity to get out and about (i.e. the Livingstone program, Czech school etc). I also quite like it when students come to our office asking for VCT (they usually ask in the quietest little voices) and I usually get to answer their VCT questions before taking them over to the clinic. Of course, they’re really just lost (our office is beside the clinic), but I quite enjoy these random interactions.
However, today provided a real escape from university life, as I took a two hour bus ride back from the medical campus where I had a meeting (should have been a half hour ride but the bus waits until it is full). As I waited for the bus to fill up outside of the hospital I got to talk to a bus full of mothers and some of their children (at the hospital the mothers are at the bedside 24/7), despite their obvious worries about their children, they were a really friendly, happy bunch. They told me about their kids and even asked what tribe I’m from (I’ve got to choose a Zambian tribe, because the ‘canadiana tribe’ just doesn’t cut it haha). One woman in particular really stood out for me. She sat beside me and told me about her son who had recurrent pneumonia and how she was on the bus to town to get him medication (the hospital had run out). As we talked more I found out she had two more boys, was of the Tonga tribe (a tribe that particularly supports polygamy) and had a husband who was a truck driver in the copper belt. Boom, at that point I couldn’t help but think that HIV must fit somewhere into the equation. Of course I don’t know enough to really know and I feel like a jerk for jumping to conclusions, but overall I thought it was an interesting reaction… because if it is true, it demonstrates how stigma prevents people from telling the full truth, and if it’s not true, it shows that I’ve really been programmed to only see AIDS (which I guess is neither good nor bad, nor surprising)… I think this woman and I will stay in touch… so maybe I’ll get a real answer.
The rest of the ride was a bit less serious as much of it was spent sitting in the middle of the city Market while we waited for the second bus to fill up. It was such a good chance to just watch people. Of particular interest was the super sudden mass exodus of illegal fruit vendors when the civic police patrolled. The bus ride back to work was pretty amusing as well, the ‘conductor’ (I’m using this term super loosely) tried to charge me twice the price (the ‘mazungu’ price as I pointed out, which made him laugh even more), but fortunately I knew the real price and all the other bus riders stood up for me (pretty surprising and sweet). And of course, no ride would be complete without a couple marriage proposals/buy-off offers. Although having a boyfriend doesn’t hold any water, fortunately, the threat of a large strong husband works well. Ha.
Finally, when I got back to the office (wow, this story is way too long, sorry!), I decided that my arm ached from malaria and therefore consulted MacBrian (who is almost as paranoid about malaria as me… if that’s possible). He fortunately assured me that my asymmetrical ailment was not malaria and then asked “has somebody been tampering with you?”… haha I couldn’t help but laugh, which made him laugh. Though just to be sure he restated the question and told me he’d go beat them up if they had. Very sweet… but I assured him… nobody ‘tampers’ with me. Ha.
However, today provided a real escape from university life, as I took a two hour bus ride back from the medical campus where I had a meeting (should have been a half hour ride but the bus waits until it is full). As I waited for the bus to fill up outside of the hospital I got to talk to a bus full of mothers and some of their children (at the hospital the mothers are at the bedside 24/7), despite their obvious worries about their children, they were a really friendly, happy bunch. They told me about their kids and even asked what tribe I’m from (I’ve got to choose a Zambian tribe, because the ‘canadiana tribe’ just doesn’t cut it haha). One woman in particular really stood out for me. She sat beside me and told me about her son who had recurrent pneumonia and how she was on the bus to town to get him medication (the hospital had run out). As we talked more I found out she had two more boys, was of the Tonga tribe (a tribe that particularly supports polygamy) and had a husband who was a truck driver in the copper belt. Boom, at that point I couldn’t help but think that HIV must fit somewhere into the equation. Of course I don’t know enough to really know and I feel like a jerk for jumping to conclusions, but overall I thought it was an interesting reaction… because if it is true, it demonstrates how stigma prevents people from telling the full truth, and if it’s not true, it shows that I’ve really been programmed to only see AIDS (which I guess is neither good nor bad, nor surprising)… I think this woman and I will stay in touch… so maybe I’ll get a real answer.
The rest of the ride was a bit less serious as much of it was spent sitting in the middle of the city Market while we waited for the second bus to fill up. It was such a good chance to just watch people. Of particular interest was the super sudden mass exodus of illegal fruit vendors when the civic police patrolled. The bus ride back to work was pretty amusing as well, the ‘conductor’ (I’m using this term super loosely) tried to charge me twice the price (the ‘mazungu’ price as I pointed out, which made him laugh even more), but fortunately I knew the real price and all the other bus riders stood up for me (pretty surprising and sweet). And of course, no ride would be complete without a couple marriage proposals/buy-off offers. Although having a boyfriend doesn’t hold any water, fortunately, the threat of a large strong husband works well. Ha.
Finally, when I got back to the office (wow, this story is way too long, sorry!), I decided that my arm ached from malaria and therefore consulted MacBrian (who is almost as paranoid about malaria as me… if that’s possible). He fortunately assured me that my asymmetrical ailment was not malaria and then asked “has somebody been tampering with you?”… haha I couldn’t help but laugh, which made him laugh. Though just to be sure he restated the question and told me he’d go beat them up if they had. Very sweet… but I assured him… nobody ‘tampers’ with me. Ha.
Thursday, November 15, 2007
HIV & Ethics
Today I helped provide a “VCT on campus” presentation for a graduate class and learned a few new things which got me thinking/writing…
- Before doctors put you on ARVs your CD4 count must drop below 200. This (I believe) is a WHO standard and based upon the rationale that giving ARVs too early increases the chances of poor adherence or viral resistance. However, what makes this interesting is that cost likely does factor in, even if it isn’t a blatant reason for setting the line at 200. Like many health care issues, health economics is absolutely necessary, but still, when there is the possibility that somebody is balancing human life/quality of life against monetary cost, I can’t help to feel a little uneasy. I don’t actually know how much cost does factor in, but I do wonder.
- I didn’t realize it, but today I found out that all pregnant women are required to undergo mandatory HIV testing. It’s such a double edged sword, because it is a descent (and common) means of calculating the national average, but seems like such an intense measure (i.e. an intrusion on individual rights not commonly tolerated in a country like Canada). What makes it particularly intense is that even if the pregnant woman doesn’t want to know her status she is still informed. Overall, it seems like an ‘efficient’ or necessary idea, but I can only imagine the stress of finding out you are HIV positive just as you begin your pregnancy.
- About a year ago two African trials proved that male circumcision can reduce HIV transmission by approximately 50%. This is huge (!) and certainly caused a major stir (although most people were skeptical as to where grown men could be convinced to undergo the procedure). Well well well, much to my surprise they are now offering the procedure in Zambian hospitals! When you get tested for HIV the counselor rattles off: abstain, be faithful, use condoms, oh, and if you’re not circumcised? You really ought to go get it done. It’s so commonplace now! Really, I’m thrilled to see such a quick translation of research into practice, and curious to see how successful the program actually is. Any volunteers? ;)
- Before doctors put you on ARVs your CD4 count must drop below 200. This (I believe) is a WHO standard and based upon the rationale that giving ARVs too early increases the chances of poor adherence or viral resistance. However, what makes this interesting is that cost likely does factor in, even if it isn’t a blatant reason for setting the line at 200. Like many health care issues, health economics is absolutely necessary, but still, when there is the possibility that somebody is balancing human life/quality of life against monetary cost, I can’t help to feel a little uneasy. I don’t actually know how much cost does factor in, but I do wonder.
- I didn’t realize it, but today I found out that all pregnant women are required to undergo mandatory HIV testing. It’s such a double edged sword, because it is a descent (and common) means of calculating the national average, but seems like such an intense measure (i.e. an intrusion on individual rights not commonly tolerated in a country like Canada). What makes it particularly intense is that even if the pregnant woman doesn’t want to know her status she is still informed. Overall, it seems like an ‘efficient’ or necessary idea, but I can only imagine the stress of finding out you are HIV positive just as you begin your pregnancy.
- About a year ago two African trials proved that male circumcision can reduce HIV transmission by approximately 50%. This is huge (!) and certainly caused a major stir (although most people were skeptical as to where grown men could be convinced to undergo the procedure). Well well well, much to my surprise they are now offering the procedure in Zambian hospitals! When you get tested for HIV the counselor rattles off: abstain, be faithful, use condoms, oh, and if you’re not circumcised? You really ought to go get it done. It’s so commonplace now! Really, I’m thrilled to see such a quick translation of research into practice, and curious to see how successful the program actually is. Any volunteers? ;)
Monday, November 12, 2007
Parties and such
One nice thing about being somewhere new, and meeting all sorts of people who have also been uprooted, is that you get invited to all sorts of parties. Ha! I’ll give a short report of the most notable recent social activities. Last, last weekend my mother and I cooked dinner for our neighbour Katrina’s 29th birthday (on the same day as another special somebody!). We (and when I say we, I mean mainly my mom) cooked this huge feast of roast, mashed potatoes, salad and pie. It was great, and felt like home (minus the archaic, way too hot oven haha). The party with the Czechs was held under the stars and watered by a lot of Czech punch and local beer.
The next night we went to a Swiss embassy party (way more high brow than the Canadian ones!)… It was a pretty shwanky affair, full of old Swiss people (and a couple young girls I spent most of my time with). We ate great food and even better cheese and chocolate. Mmm mmm. Also, I had a nice chat with the Swiss ambassador who told me I should come to Zimbabwe to meet an excellent Swiss AIDS researcher he works with. We’ll see if certain mothers of mine allow me to cross into Zimbabwe ;)
… last week was pretty relaxed, Friday my mom and I got Indian food and watched Dexter all night (our new favourite show!) and Saturday I went to an American girl’s birthday party. But this wasn’t just any party. There was a huge blow up castle and a pool! As expected (by Miranda) I made myself right at home in the castle and had a fun (but pretty early) night out with Marcelle, Catherine and Dr. Julie (the fun visiting Toronto resident)… next weekend we go to Kafue National Park (elephants and hippos!!). I’m so excited! More on that soon…
A few more photos @: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2172422&l=27b16&id=13613119
The next night we went to a Swiss embassy party (way more high brow than the Canadian ones!)… It was a pretty shwanky affair, full of old Swiss people (and a couple young girls I spent most of my time with). We ate great food and even better cheese and chocolate. Mmm mmm. Also, I had a nice chat with the Swiss ambassador who told me I should come to Zimbabwe to meet an excellent Swiss AIDS researcher he works with. We’ll see if certain mothers of mine allow me to cross into Zimbabwe ;)
… last week was pretty relaxed, Friday my mom and I got Indian food and watched Dexter all night (our new favourite show!) and Saturday I went to an American girl’s birthday party. But this wasn’t just any party. There was a huge blow up castle and a pool! As expected (by Miranda) I made myself right at home in the castle and had a fun (but pretty early) night out with Marcelle, Catherine and Dr. Julie (the fun visiting Toronto resident)… next weekend we go to Kafue National Park (elephants and hippos!!). I’m so excited! More on that soon…
A few more photos @: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2172422&l=27b16&id=13613119
Married women
I can’t help but write a short rant about married women & HIV (it’s been on my mind for weeks!). Married women are probably the most frustrating and upsetting ‘HIV risk group’ I have yet encountered in Zambia. For me, the theme of last week was certainly frustration. But really I guess it didn’t start last week, it started a year ago at the AIDS conference in Toronto when an African woman stood up and said “I abstained from sex until I was married, I was always faithful to my husband, I tried to negotiate for condoms… and now I have HIV”… she followed the ABCs, yet couldn’t avoid AIDS. Now that I am in Zambia I am again and again reminded of that woman. I keep meeting women here who have friends who want to use condoms in their marriage but get abused when they suggest it, students whose fathers often cheat on their moms but the parents remain married and most recently a very young, successful, confident, gorgeous woman I met at a party who’s husband hadn’t touched her in 2 years and had repeatedly been caught cheating on her (she said she planned to leave him). My heart aches for these women.
Most simply, I think these stories point out the faults of the ABC approach. However, once you ditch the ABCs what are you left with? Many organizations have tried to empower these women (so they can leave their husband if they need to or feel confident to negotiate for safer sex practices), but I don’t think this is enough. I really have no idea what should be done and everybody I talk to seems equally clueless. Promote female condoms? Dissuade unfaithfulness? Target the men? None of these seem like they’d practically work. It kills me that there is no clear solution to this huge problem.
Most simply, I think these stories point out the faults of the ABC approach. However, once you ditch the ABCs what are you left with? Many organizations have tried to empower these women (so they can leave their husband if they need to or feel confident to negotiate for safer sex practices), but I don’t think this is enough. I really have no idea what should be done and everybody I talk to seems equally clueless. Promote female condoms? Dissuade unfaithfulness? Target the men? None of these seem like they’d practically work. It kills me that there is no clear solution to this huge problem.
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